Tucked into the cellar of an unassuming building in midtown New York City, Le Veau d’Or has been serving the classics of traditional French haute cuisine since 1937. During its heyday, one could find there the likes of Orson Welles, Truman Capote, or Grace Kelly. Nowadays, the Le Veau d’Or quietly caters mostly to elderly regulars and epicures.
Nostalgic decor, perfect service, and a sublime œufs à la neige all aside; we come to sample the tripes à la mode de Caen!
Le Veau d’Or serves a sophisticated version of the dish. A surprisingly generous portion comes piping-hot in a heavy metal tureen. A deep aroma emanates from its precious contents as the lid is removed.
The broth is rich, deep, and gelatinous. The flavors are balanced and discernable. Chef Marin Martin’s preparation includes tomato, which reminds me of Patrick Georgin’s recipe. The broth is speckled with parsley. Essence of apple (from calvados or cider) was non-detectable.
The tripe is cooked to perfect tenderness. Only reticulum (honeycomb) is used at Le Veau, and it is served cut into refined strips of approximately ¼”x 2” (as opposed to the tradiational 2”x 2” squares). The carrots and celery are sweet and meaty. Although the use of veal feet is evidenced by the mouth-feel of the broth, I did not find any in the dish proper.
This is a delicious, sophisticated, metropolitan take on the dish that would be just at home served in a silver platter as it would be in an earthenware bowl. Next time you are in NYC, stop by Le Veau d’Or and say “bonjour” (and don’t forget to leave room for the œufs à la neige)!
Review: Tripes à la mode de Caen at Le Veau d’Or
By Guy Docetoni